With the growth in popularity in diamonds in the early 1950’s, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) saw a need to standardize the quality of diamonds. By creating the 4C’s, color, clarity, cut and carat, buyers and sellers can now communicate with each other in a universal language regarding the quality of diamonds.
Overview
Cut
Color
Clarity
Carat
The Wonder of Diamonds
Artfully Exploring Nature
When it comes to all the wondrous pleasures this earth has to offer, nothing quite compares to the dazzling beauty and sheer delight of a finely cut and exquisitely polished diamond. Natural diamonds are formed under extreme heat as well as pressure, at a depth of 140 to 190 km beneath the earth’s surface. Essentially composed of carbon, it takes from 1 to 3.3 billion years to grow a diamond, with deep volcanic eruptions bringing the crystal, as if by magic, to the earth’s surface.
Over the centuries, the treasurable diamond has come to symbolize beauty, commitment and, above all, true love.
The name diamond, deriving from ancient Greek, means unalterable or unbreakable, referring to the diamond’s incomparable hardness. Earliest known records, dating back 3000 years to India, have it that the diamond was a part of mystic ritual. In fact, many of the world’s most illustrious diamonds were mined in India. The legendary Koh-I-Norr, for instance, one of the world’s largest, comes to mind, as does the iconic blue Hope diamond. In recent years, diamond exploration has grown and countries like Australia and Canada assure a constant supply of fine diamonds to meet the world’s ever-expanding demand for this precious commodity.
In the 14th century, gemstones, including diamonds set in gold, became the traditional sign of marital engagement. And in the last century, diamonds rose in prominence to become the principle gemstone, given as a sign of a forthcoming marriage.
One can’t help but smile at the lyrics of the popular song, Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend: “A kiss on the lips may be quite continental but diamonds are a girl’s best friend.” Before the last century, diamonds were the proud possession of a privileged few. But times have changed and these days the demand for diamonds has become a familiar and precious part of our culture. Diamonds indeed are a girl’s best friend as the song suggests, and Damasci has been in the forefront, offering quality diamond engagement rings to an ever-increasing public, with an eye to quality, craftsmanship and favorable prices.
Artistic Craft
With the world shifting to digital retail, Damasci, long known for its enhanced retail experience, is moving forward with the times as well as offering its valued customers an online retail experience second to none, combined with personal attention, care and favorable prices which our reputation is built upon.
Over the centuries, the treasureable diamond has come to symbolize beauty, commitment and above all, true love.
Damasci Associate
The 4 Cs of a Stone
Every diamond is a wonder of nature, unique and a miracle of time and chance. Like fingerprints, no two diamonds are exactly the same.
With the growth in popularity in diamonds in the early 1950’s, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) saw a need to standardize the quality of diamonds. By creating the 4C’s, color, clarity, cut and carat, buyers and sellers can now communicate with each other in a universal language regarding the quality of diamonds.
The GIA’s 4C’s is now accepted worldwide. In fact, the four C’s of diamond quality is the universal means of measuring the quality of any diamond, anywhere in the world. Most importantly with this unique, universal standardization, diamonds buyers are now able to know exactly the value of their purchase.
The Cut of a Stone
Of all the four C’s: carat, clarity, cut and color, it is the cut alone which best determines the beauty or sparkle of a diamond.
A diamond’s cut doesn’t so much refer to whether it is oval, round, pear or emerald shaped, but rather its symmetry, polish and, most importantly, its proportions. In fact, the loveliness of a diamond depends more on its cut than any other factor.
Difficult and challenging to quantify, a diamond’s cut alone has three key effects when it comes to appearance:
- The fire or dispersion of light into the various colors of the spectrum which are perceived by the naked eye as flares of color
- Brilliance or the brightness of a diamond is established by the combination of all the white light reflecting from the surface, as well as the interior of a fully polished diamond.
- Finally, Scintillation or the flashes of dark and light, also referred to as sparkle, occurs when the diamond or its source of light is shifted.
Know Your Diamond Facets
Table
Crown
Gridle
Upper Girdle
Pavilion
Cutlet
Star
Depth
The table is the top horizontal facet of the diamond. The average table size is expressed as a percentage of the diamond’s average girdle diameter. While an ‘Excellent’ grade diamond will have a table size between 52 and 62 percent, other proportions are important too. Remember that GIA doesn’t consider individual proportions in isolation.
Crown Height: The crown is the upper portion of the diamond, from the top edge of the girdle to the table. The average crown height is expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter. It can affect both the dispersion and brightness of a diamond.
Crown Angle: The crown angle is the angle that’s formed where the bezel facets meet the girdle plane. The crown angle in a well-cut diamond will be within 31.5 to 36.5 degrees. The crown angle has a large effect on the face-up appearance of a round brilliant cut diamond. The best range of crown angles provide a route for exiting light dispersion, as well as additional contrasting directions for entering light. Star Length: The horizontally projected distance from the point of the star facet to the edge of the table, relative to the distance between the table edge and the girdle edge. A well-cut diamond will range between 40 to 70 percent, when other parameters are within the correct ranges
The girdle is the middle portion of a diamond, a narrow section separating the crown from the pavilion, and functions as the diamond’s setting edge. The girdle thickness is described as a range from its thinnest to thickest areas. A thick girdle is less desirable because it unnecessarily adds weight to the stone where it matters the least (making the diamond appear smaller). An extremely thin girdle is sometimes referred to as a knife-edge, and results in a diamond that is more fragile and susceptible to chipping. Therefore, a girdle that is “medium to slightly thick” is preferred.
Lower Girdle / Half Facet Length: This ratio is measured by calculating how long the lower girdle facets are relative to the length of the pavilion. This defines the contrast of a round brilliant cut diamond, which controls the brilliance of a diamond. The well-cut diamond will range between 65 to 90 percent. Diamonds with longer lower half facets will have a little more scintillation.
Pavilion Depth: The pavilion is the lower portion of a diamond from the bottom edge of the girdle to the culet. The pavilion depth is expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter. A pavilion depth that’s too shallow or too deep will allow light to escape from the side or bottom of the stone. A well-cut diamond will direct more light upward through the crown.
Pavilion Angle: Pavilion angle is another important dimension of the stone, especially as it relates to a diamond’s brightness. It is the average of the angles formed by the diamond’s pavilion main facets and its girdle plane. This should fall between 40.6 and 41.8 degrees to be considered “Excellent,” providing other parameters also fit their proper ranges.
The culet is the small facet at the bottom of a diamond intended to prevent chipping and abrasion to the point. The culet size can affect face-up appearance and it’s described as the average width of the facet. Size is expressed as none, very small, small, medium, slightly large, large, very large, and extremely large. When there is no culet, it is sometimes referred to as a pointed culet. Preferably the culet will not be visible with the unaided eye, and when described as none (no culet), very small or small on a GIA report, it falls in the excellent range.
The star facets of a diamond are small, triangular facets that surround the table, contributing to the diamond's brilliance and sparkle. They play a crucial role in how light reflects within the diamond, enhancing its overall appearance.
The diamond’s overall depth from the surface of the table to the culet, expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter.
All diamonds are created from rough stones. Ideally the diamond cutter will want to balance an optimal cut and its appearance against a stone’s maximum yield. However, many consumers are inclined to pay a higher price for a poorly cut larger diamond rather than a smaller diamond which is more finely cut, leaving the cutter to sacrifice the look of the stone in order to retain as much carat weight from the original rough as possible.
One can gather from the above that the cut grade of a diamond is of major importance. This allows the consumer to distinguish between poorly and finely cut diamonds.
Please note: The basic rough stone, shown in purple, can yield a single diamond but with two potentially differing weights.
One of these diamonds will yield a stone maximizing as much as the diamond material that the stone will allow, resulting in a less attractively cut stone. However, if the diamond cutter decides to cut a diamond with perfect or near-perfect proportions, he will need to remove more of the original rough.
With the first example above, a too-deep cut diamond, illustrated in red, will yield a somewhat larger stone, earning the diamond cutter additional profit on his investment.
On the other hand, the superbly cut smaller diamond, in green, may sell for less in total than the larger version, but it will still fetch a significantly higher price per carat.
Damasci Buying Tips
The overall look of a diamond is determined principally by its cut grade. If a stone isn’t well cut, it can appear dull despite an excellent color and clarity grading. And the reverse is also true. A diamond of excellent cut with lower clarity and color grading will still be very pleasing to the eye, due to its exceptional brilliance and sparkle.
If extraordinary brilliance is desired, always select a diamond with a very good or excellent Cut Grade for round brilliants, and good or better for fancy shape diamonds, such as cushion, oval and princess cuts. When selecting a diamond in this cut grade, it is advisable to include very good or excellent polish and symmetry aspects, allowing for an above average cut which is clear and unobscured.
For those who are economically minded and mostly concerned with size, selecting a good cut is a sensible choice, particularly when selecting fancy shapes. Such stones for the same price will allow for greater carat weight for a similar price, although the final results may lack the brilliance and scintillation of a well cut diamond.
There are four different cut grades we deal in at Damasci:
Signature Ideal
Excellent / Ideal (EX)
Very Good (VG)
Good (G)
Damasci Signature Ideal
This superb cut is the finest available in the diamond trade. Only the top 1% of all diamonds falls within this exclusive category. The cut is polished to perfection and the marvellously calculated symmetry of hand-selected diamonds reflects more light than any other cut grade. This quality cut, the finest in the world, cannot be improved upon.
EX
Only 3% of all diamonds fall within this highly sought after cut. Rare and very fine, this cut reflects almost all of the light entering the diamond. The cut is both beautiful and of exceptional value.
VG
Reflecting almost as much light as the ideal cut, the excellent cut is available at a lower cost and represents 15% of all diamonds.
g
Reflecting most of the light that enter a diamond, this economical cut represents the best 25% of diamonds.
The Color of a Stone
When purchasing a diamond from Damasci, selecting one with the least amount of color is preferable.
Diamonds are graded according to their color, with a complete absence of color being the most rare and most desirable, as well as, the most costly. In general, there are three categories or grades of color Damasci deal with: Colorless diamonds, near colorless and faint color. The grading system for diamond color begins at the high end with the letter D and goes all the way to the letter Z at the low end.
Damasci deals only with diamond color in the D – J range, when purchasing a diamond, it is preferable to select one with the least amount of color.
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
E (Colorless)
Colorless diamonds In the D to F range are considered the most valuable and rare. These gemstones are known for their total absence of color. Only a trained gemologist will be able to detect the faint hint of color in the E and F range, so minute are the gradations to the untrained eye. Diamonds with a D color rating display no color at all.
D (Colorless)
Colorless diamonds In the D to F range are considered the most valuable and rare. These gemstones are known for their total absence of color. Only a trained gemologist will be able to detect the faint hint of color in the E and F range, so minute are the gradations to the untrained eye. Diamonds with a D color rating display no color at all.
F (Colorless)
Colorless diamonds In the D to F range are considered the most valuable and rare. These gemstones are known for their total absence of color. Only a trained gemologist will be able to detect the faint hint of color in the E and F range, so minute are the gradations to the untrained eye. Diamonds with a D color rating display no color at all.
G (Near Colorless)
Near colorless diamonds in the G to I range are generally considered colorless but when placed upside down will display ever-so-slight coloration when set against a white background. Only a trained gemologist can accurately discern the slight coloration of these gemstones which tend to represent exceptional value.
H (Near Colorless)
Near colorless diamonds in the G to I range are generally considered colorless but when placed upside down will display ever-so-slight coloration when set against a white background. Only a trained gemologist can accurately discern the slight coloration of these gemstones which tend to represent exceptional value.
I (Near Colorless)
Near colorless diamonds in the G to I range are generally considered colorless but when placed upside down will display ever-so-slight coloration when set against a white background. Only a trained gemologist can accurately discern the slight coloration of these gemstones which tend to represent exceptional value.
J (Faintly Colored Diamonds)
Faintly colored diamonds in the J range show only a trace of color and some diamond purchasers actually prefer the subtle hint of color they offer. Stones with a slight lemon tinge once over looked by experts are now, for instance, considered fashionable.
Generally speaking, color is considered the second most important characteristic of a diamond, after cut. The human eye usually perceives the sparkle of a diamond first (the cut) and then the color.
For the truly discerning, a colorless diamond in the D to F range is preferable, whereas diamonds in the G to J range with scarcely any color at all represent exceptional value as well as beauty.
The Clarity of a Stone
Of the Four C’s, clarity is regarded as the simplest to understand and least effects the appearance of a diamond. Almost all diamonds contain tiny, natural imperfections, some of which are only visible under magnifications, while others are visible to the naked eye.
Most of these tiny inclusions do not affect the overall beauty diamond. The clarity of a diamond band is the actual measure of the size and number of the minute imperfections or inclusions found in the majority of natural stones. Only the finest diamonds are free of such inclusions and these, while receiving the highest clarity grading almost command the highest price.
When purchasing a Damasci loose diamond it is best to consider one which is free of imperfection to the naked or unaided eye. Such stones are less costly then flawless diamonds. Also diamonds marked SI (slightly included) are free of eye-visible inclusions and tend to be of excellent value.
For diamond free of all eye-visible inclusions, Damasci suggests you consider diamonds which are VS2 or the higher VS1 grade. Before finalizing your ring or loose diamond purchase, it is advisable to have a Damasci expert review your selection with you.
FL / IF
VVS1 / VVS2
VS1 / VS2
SI1 / SI2
I1
I2
I3
Internally flawless
FL-Flawless. The diamond is flawless. Stones like this are extremely rare, expensive, and difficult to buy.
IF - Internally Flawless The diamond is internally flawless but has tiny external blemishes. Rare, hard to find, and beautiful.
Very very slightly included
Very, Very Slightly Included. Inclusions are present, but extremely hard to see - even under 10x magnification.
Very slightly included
Very Slightly Included. inclusions are present, but hard to see under 10x magnification.
Slightly included
Slightly Included. Inclusions are easy to see under 10x magnification. Some are visible to the naked eye.
Included
Obvious inclusions using 10x magnification which might affect brilliance and transparency
Included
Obvious inclusions using 10x magnification which might affect brilliance and transparency
Included
Obvious inclusions using 10x magnification which might affect brilliance and transparency
The Carat of a Stone
In Centuries passed, Diamonds were measured in Carob seeds which are both uniform and small. Over the years the word carob then evolved into the word carat. Today the weight of a diamond is measured in carats and, by itself cannot reflect the overall size of a stone with any accuracy.
This is because larger diamonds tend to be scarce and the larger the stone the more rarified it becomes. For example, three diamonds each weighing one carat will not be equal in value to a single stone weighing three carats. In North America, the majority of diamonds sold mounted in jewelry or loose are less than one carat in weight and most diamond engagement ring are less than half a carat in weight.
It is best, when determining the carat weight of a diamond, to factor in the diameter of the stone across the top, as well as its cut. The phrase across the top is used because this is the way most diamonds are viewed when mounted in a ring setting.
The diamond chart below generally illustrates how diamonds of varying weights and shapes will appear when viewed from above.
0.25
0.33
0.5
0.75
1.0
1.25
1.50
1.75
2.0
2.5
3.0
4.0
5.0
It is interesting to note that diamond weights tend to increase faster than they increase in diameter form a face-up positon. To illustrate, a well cut two carat diamond might measure 8.2mm across and if the stone is twice the weight it will increase in size far less than 16.4mm across, double the diameter of the original stone.
When choosing the carat weight of a diamond, please keep in mind both the budget as well your personal preferences. The price of the stone will be affected by its cut and diameter, as well as its weight. Merely looking at a diamond cannot accurately determine its carat weight.
For instance, a well-cut diamond tends to display more sparkle than a poorly cut stone. And an increase in sparkle or reflected light tends to make the diamond appear larger. As well, a poorly cut diamond may have additional out-of-sight weight, making it appear smaller than its’ actual carat weight.
It is easiest to begin selectin a stone’s color, cut and clarity and then come up with a carat weight when budgeting for a diamond.
For an in-depth discussion on selecting an engagement ring, please refer to our Engagement Ring guide. (link)